2009 Melaric Saumur, Billes de Roche
An early hint of summer with floral blooms of apricot. Wonderful acidity and a backdrop of some spice that I always associate with carnations. Here in the throes of February I'm transported to a warm deck overlooking a green field of fledging, shin high wheat, tasting under-ripe apricots: fruit yes, but that subtle tartness that suggests the fruit will be ready in day or two. Was this the inspiration for sweet tart candy?
Magnificent with the hearty but light fare of the week: white bean soup and assorted cheeses. This wine defines crispness and has held its shape over several days in the refer. I believe purchased at E&R; they know a thing or two about subtleties and perfect acids. Golden hues that remind me of Terri's tresses. Terri, what has become of you? A young gypsy girl from the 70's; you were a wonderful lover and good friend. I have always been circumspect with whom I'll open the doors of perception and you were so easy and gentle on my mind. It was easy to trip with you and that phrase only means something to those who've been there. Transported by this wonderful wine to a time when things seemed....simpler? better? I can't capture that time with words but I can feel it and I love being there once again. Thank you.
Sunday, February 10, 2013
Saturday, February 9, 2013
The King and I
Yes, SWIRL fans, with this Epiphany luncheon a king was chosen to lead the pack. Perhaps it was because this year's festivities fell so close to Fat Tuesday, but the lucky beignet fell to me. I will endeavor to reign with a velvet glove and a lion's heart.
By way of first order, I invoked a return to the holiday celebrations of my youth, that is, for this calendar year, we will celebrate holidays as they come and not in the fashion invoked by Richard the Deceptive Heart Nixon: conveniently compressing holidays to fit into a tidy three-day weekend formula. So, on February 12th and 22nd, Abe and George regain their rightful status as celebrations of note.
This year's Epiphany was a beauty: all accounted for except our southern sister Kay. We ate like kings and queens, drank the finest of fizz and laughed as only those who love freely can. Proof? I offer you this:
By way of first order, I invoked a return to the holiday celebrations of my youth, that is, for this calendar year, we will celebrate holidays as they come and not in the fashion invoked by Richard the Deceptive Heart Nixon: conveniently compressing holidays to fit into a tidy three-day weekend formula. So, on February 12th and 22nd, Abe and George regain their rightful status as celebrations of note.
This year's Epiphany was a beauty: all accounted for except our southern sister Kay. We ate like kings and queens, drank the finest of fizz and laughed as only those who love freely can. Proof? I offer you this:
Long may we run!
I will endeavor to post more on this blog this year. Last year's attempt at naming the "60 finest" wines to coincide with my age was clearly a bust. The task proved too big. Every wine tasted could have been on the list and how to choose? Sure, some proved more memorable than others and the "inclusion" part is easy; it's the exclusion part that gives me pause.
Salud, prost, asante: I raise a new glass to my Swirler brothers and sisters and look forward to providing a court worthy of your attention.
WtE
Tuesday, May 8, 2012
La dolce vita revisited
We came together eleven weeks after our many weeks in Italy: the colonel and the angry pony hosted. Scriba brought along her delightful husband, Dave, who unfortunately did not make the Italian vacance and had to suffer through our many 'you had to be there' stories of our time together in Cortona and other oases of Italian nirvana. He held up well. The Bawl Baby, Minkie and Ed from Fla rounded out the festa and a festa it was: the center piece being the distribution of our italian wine purchases and a chance to worship the almighty pig.
The antipasti plate of cheeses, salami, marcona almonds, olives and assorted crackers provided an elegant accompaniment to the Walla Walla champagne, compliments of Minkie. Dinner followed shortly: perfectly pan-roasted potatoes and cruciferous vegetables, day-long languidly stewed white beans and the centerpiece, the anglo-fied porchetta roast tinged with maple smoke from the Traeger. The table groaned under the weight of such largess and the gutteral utterances of happy eaters. Yeah, we had some wine too: a 2003 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from Boscarelli, a 2007 Villa Antinori Toscana, a 2007 Vino N di M from Poliziano (that we purchased in Italy) and a non-vintage Sauvignon Blanc from Wally World's Va Piano.
The antipasti plate of cheeses, salami, marcona almonds, olives and assorted crackers provided an elegant accompaniment to the Walla Walla champagne, compliments of Minkie. Dinner followed shortly: perfectly pan-roasted potatoes and cruciferous vegetables, day-long languidly stewed white beans and the centerpiece, the anglo-fied porchetta roast tinged with maple smoke from the Traeger. The table groaned under the weight of such largess and the gutteral utterances of happy eaters. Yeah, we had some wine too: a 2003 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from Boscarelli, a 2007 Villa Antinori Toscana, a 2007 Vino N di M from Poliziano (that we purchased in Italy) and a non-vintage Sauvignon Blanc from Wally World's Va Piano.
You Had to Be There
A spontaneous change, for us: instead of a trip to ERS, we went to Vinopolis to pick up a few things, including a remarkable wine from the ever remarkable Marcel Deiss. Then on to Andina for a bit of food and drink. Well now, little did I know that another entry into the top 60 would appear....perhaps the entrants are as much about the "where" and "with what" as they are the wine proper; as if you could separate the two!
So, a meal laden with quinoa was taken to new heights by a 2010 rioja blanco (viura) from a producer that I don't recall but it started with an "I". The wine was just spot on with the entire meal. The pequillo peppers, the avocado/crab salad, the quinoa timbale all were impeccably interwoven with this crisp, floral, acidic white wine. One of my "to die for" wines is the LdH Vina Tondonia, which is an aged, oxidized viura. But this fresh version makes me committed to finding more viura, in whatever stage of age, to reconnect with the food marriage like few others. Is it only with Spanish or Latin flavored dishes? I have to find out.
So, a meal laden with quinoa was taken to new heights by a 2010 rioja blanco (viura) from a producer that I don't recall but it started with an "I". The wine was just spot on with the entire meal. The pequillo peppers, the avocado/crab salad, the quinoa timbale all were impeccably interwoven with this crisp, floral, acidic white wine. One of my "to die for" wines is the LdH Vina Tondonia, which is an aged, oxidized viura. But this fresh version makes me committed to finding more viura, in whatever stage of age, to reconnect with the food marriage like few others. Is it only with Spanish or Latin flavored dishes? I have to find out.
Monday, April 9, 2012
Interlude
Meanwhile, a road trip to WW, while the 60 for 60 awaits.
I love going to the Wallas. It is spring, the Cayuse is flowing, and the inevitable battle arises: why do we spend so much on domestic wine when we could get twice the value and quality for as much or less dough from our favorite areas in Europe? I don't have an easy answer. Basically, I guess it's because we can. In another economic time, we would, but because I'm still employed and "we can", we schlep over and make a game of it. Trapped in the Cayuse flywheel...oh well, the wine holds its value and is fun to drink. Over priced? Compared to what....foreign? domestic? As good as the high end Napas and hold their value as well. Foreign? Apples and oranges my friend; can't compare in any format.
So we play and meet exceptionally nice people. Our love affair with the simple down to earth folks at Bunchgrass always a highlight. New friends this time, from Mannina, whose roots are Italian and makes....wines....under .....14%...and can be good with food! What a concept. Nice man with a great feel; will buy and drink more of his wines. It's not the etoh level debate; it's the "can you drink it with something besides bbq" issue for me and Mannina's wines will make the grade. Also spent a nice afternoon at Castillo Feliciana...very nice people and serviceable wines. Others? WTF is up with Rasa? Wines WAY over priced and not that good. What do you think: you can hang with the big dogs? Good luck with that. Mackey, probably a mercy buy of two bottles; same with Ash Hollow. These two were nice came with nice folks who were nice to us and that will generally get you a sale. Rulo? The white wine refuge came through again, with a really nice, affordable stainless chardonnay that washed down our free Burgerville chicken salad way too easy.
Home to chinese and, for grins, a 2007 Trio Riesling that's been lurking in the cellar and a fino sherry. The sherry just magnifico with the hot and sour soup and the riesling working well with the spiced up rice/vegetables (see? you can spell vegetables, people; veggies (ick) is NOT a word!!!
Okay, now back to the 60/60 tales.....gevry, sancerre, oh so much more.....
I love going to the Wallas. It is spring, the Cayuse is flowing, and the inevitable battle arises: why do we spend so much on domestic wine when we could get twice the value and quality for as much or less dough from our favorite areas in Europe? I don't have an easy answer. Basically, I guess it's because we can. In another economic time, we would, but because I'm still employed and "we can", we schlep over and make a game of it. Trapped in the Cayuse flywheel...oh well, the wine holds its value and is fun to drink. Over priced? Compared to what....foreign? domestic? As good as the high end Napas and hold their value as well. Foreign? Apples and oranges my friend; can't compare in any format.
So we play and meet exceptionally nice people. Our love affair with the simple down to earth folks at Bunchgrass always a highlight. New friends this time, from Mannina, whose roots are Italian and makes....wines....under .....14%...and can be good with food! What a concept. Nice man with a great feel; will buy and drink more of his wines. It's not the etoh level debate; it's the "can you drink it with something besides bbq" issue for me and Mannina's wines will make the grade. Also spent a nice afternoon at Castillo Feliciana...very nice people and serviceable wines. Others? WTF is up with Rasa? Wines WAY over priced and not that good. What do you think: you can hang with the big dogs? Good luck with that. Mackey, probably a mercy buy of two bottles; same with Ash Hollow. These two were nice came with nice folks who were nice to us and that will generally get you a sale. Rulo? The white wine refuge came through again, with a really nice, affordable stainless chardonnay that washed down our free Burgerville chicken salad way too easy.
Home to chinese and, for grins, a 2007 Trio Riesling that's been lurking in the cellar and a fino sherry. The sherry just magnifico with the hot and sour soup and the riesling working well with the spiced up rice/vegetables (see? you can spell vegetables, people; veggies (ick) is NOT a word!!!
Okay, now back to the 60/60 tales.....gevry, sancerre, oh so much more.....
Sunday, February 26, 2012
The Top 60 Continues, in No Particular Order
It should have been apparent, with the precipitous jump on things on the 20th of Dec. I guess there's no compelling reason to list these things in the order consumed. It's the top 60 wines after all and chronology isn't mandatory.
So with that out of the way, let's talk about the 2009 Muller Thurgau from Colterenzio. This wine was spellbinding. Instantly I was transported to an alpine field, crisp and cold, redolent with glorious wildflower scents. Amazing. Just amazing. Ethereal and long lived, as if the gustatory pleasure would never end. It soared, in a high alpine way; cutting acidity but not aloof and remote. Unbelievably good....really: it was so good it was unbelievable. Those crazy kids at ERS know there stuff. Wish I'd bought a case.
Next up, another white from northeastern Italy, the 2009 Malvasia from Skerk. We took this to Cabazon and had it with fish. Truly an astonishingly good wine. So floral, so flavorful, so damn good. The folks at Cabazon would be wise to expand their wine list and include more fish friendly wines. It is their character flaw: too many Cali and northwest whites. If you could taste this wine, with the skate I had, you would die knowing that you had tasted one of the great food/wine matches. Just astonishingly good and....I think we have another bottle in the basement! At least I know that we have more Skerk, just not sure it's malvasia. We had the good fortune to meet the folks from Skerk at ERS; that's how we happened onto this gift from the wine gods. Ed/Richard/Stephanie: thank you.
So with that out of the way, let's talk about the 2009 Muller Thurgau from Colterenzio. This wine was spellbinding. Instantly I was transported to an alpine field, crisp and cold, redolent with glorious wildflower scents. Amazing. Just amazing. Ethereal and long lived, as if the gustatory pleasure would never end. It soared, in a high alpine way; cutting acidity but not aloof and remote. Unbelievably good....really: it was so good it was unbelievable. Those crazy kids at ERS know there stuff. Wish I'd bought a case.
Next up, another white from northeastern Italy, the 2009 Malvasia from Skerk. We took this to Cabazon and had it with fish. Truly an astonishingly good wine. So floral, so flavorful, so damn good. The folks at Cabazon would be wise to expand their wine list and include more fish friendly wines. It is their character flaw: too many Cali and northwest whites. If you could taste this wine, with the skate I had, you would die knowing that you had tasted one of the great food/wine matches. Just astonishingly good and....I think we have another bottle in the basement! At least I know that we have more Skerk, just not sure it's malvasia. We had the good fortune to meet the folks from Skerk at ERS; that's how we happened onto this gift from the wine gods. Ed/Richard/Stephanie: thank you.
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Heading into the Sixties
As I stand on the precipice of this next decade, I've decided to make a run at writing about my 60 favorite wines. (KT was quick to point out that often it's the one I'm holding at the moment.) It was my intent to start on the actual day of my birth, but tonight this plan was pre-empted by a 1996 Cahors.
I spent the better part of Sunday cooking up a cassoulet. I've always wanted to make one and this recipe seemed achievable, even for a middlin' cook like me. Although the end result would not be featured on the cover of any fine dining rags, it is a country stew, after all, and in that regard the results were a stunning success.
What to drink? I initially planned to open a CdP that I picked up at a very reasonable price from Vinopolis, but glanced briefly at the "What to Eat with What you Drink" book and "they" suggested that Cahors was the quintessential match. OMG were they right! We had the "old" cahors in the basement (I believe it was the Clos de Coutale from Kermit Lynch) and this seemed like the perfect time to give it air.
Absolument! It was spectacular. The wine married with the food so well that I didn't think to "analyze" it. It just went down seamlessly with the cassoulet and describing it would be like trying to pick out one of the spices that melted into this wonderful recipe. I know that I tasted fruits - dark, perhaps cranberry - and herbs - exotic, subtle and perhaps asian - and maybe some resinous wood, but on the whole the wine and food were an inseparable experience and amongst the finest combinations that this mouth has tasted.
A few years back, we were at a wine tasting at the old Noble Rot. Cahor was featured in the lineup and the person leading the tasting said that cahors was best drunk young and not built for aging. We happened to bring a ten year old cahors along for the fun of seeing how it matched against the class offerings. It literally stole the show. Here again tonight, and a little bit older, the proof in the glass is that you can never tell too much about wine. It surprises and it pleases me to no end that the FIRST of my 60 favorite wines is Cahors: a simple country wine that carries the elegance of the french countryside and its people. Especially memorable because we gazed at the devil on the bridge in 1998, my first trip to France. Let the tastings begin!
I spent the better part of Sunday cooking up a cassoulet. I've always wanted to make one and this recipe seemed achievable, even for a middlin' cook like me. Although the end result would not be featured on the cover of any fine dining rags, it is a country stew, after all, and in that regard the results were a stunning success.
What to drink? I initially planned to open a CdP that I picked up at a very reasonable price from Vinopolis, but glanced briefly at the "What to Eat with What you Drink" book and "they" suggested that Cahors was the quintessential match. OMG were they right! We had the "old" cahors in the basement (I believe it was the Clos de Coutale from Kermit Lynch) and this seemed like the perfect time to give it air.
Absolument! It was spectacular. The wine married with the food so well that I didn't think to "analyze" it. It just went down seamlessly with the cassoulet and describing it would be like trying to pick out one of the spices that melted into this wonderful recipe. I know that I tasted fruits - dark, perhaps cranberry - and herbs - exotic, subtle and perhaps asian - and maybe some resinous wood, but on the whole the wine and food were an inseparable experience and amongst the finest combinations that this mouth has tasted.
A few years back, we were at a wine tasting at the old Noble Rot. Cahor was featured in the lineup and the person leading the tasting said that cahors was best drunk young and not built for aging. We happened to bring a ten year old cahors along for the fun of seeing how it matched against the class offerings. It literally stole the show. Here again tonight, and a little bit older, the proof in the glass is that you can never tell too much about wine. It surprises and it pleases me to no end that the FIRST of my 60 favorite wines is Cahors: a simple country wine that carries the elegance of the french countryside and its people. Especially memorable because we gazed at the devil on the bridge in 1998, my first trip to France. Let the tastings begin!
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