Friday, January 2, 2015

Wine of the Month

A wonderful surprise this birthday: KT conspired with our friends at E&R&S Wine Store to create a case of "verticals" (by type) for me.  And then KT suggested that I open one bottle a month for the coming year. Excellent suggestion and may actually kick my ass back to writing in this long neglected blog.  Although I still think that this activity is a bit indulgent (why not just write your own diary?), it will suffice as a means to get my thoughts flowing.  Without further ado, the first wine opened:

2006 Chateau Mayne-Vieil  Fronsac.  I write tonight with the bottle finally finished.  Each day it has tasted a little different and I must say that I've not been particularly enamored with this wine.  It tasted sour and flat to me, perhaps even a faint bit corked.  That said, tonight the last sips are still palatable and maybe drinking at its best. I did decant it that first night. I don't think that is wine is meant to age but E&R wouldn't sell anything that wasn't fit to drink.  The tannins are still quite prevalent.  So, sour brambles, a bit sullen and not overly food friendly through the panoply of meals we've had since 12/29, including a Killer Burger, GF pasta, 5 hour pork roast.

Off to a slow start.

Saturday, April 27, 2013

Just for the halibut

Many years ago I discovered the sublime joy of wines from Montlouis sur Loire.  Unfortunately, KT didn't share my enthusiasm so the few that I purchased have languished in peaceful abandon in the basement.  Recently I thought that I should open a 2000 Francois Chidaine to see how it was holding up. It was very good, albeit slightly turned with oxidation.  Warning heeded!  All the rest of the Montlouis now reside in a wine cooler, to be consumed soon.

Tonight La Taille Aux Loups, 2003,  Sec Les Dix Arpents, graced the table and was breathtakingly delicious.  It was so good that even Ms. KT didn't blink when I poured it with the evening's fair: halibut with a southern Italian green sauce.  A glass or two prior to dinner revealed such amazing flavors: bracing acidity, taut apricot - that green apricot acidity, mocha and tart stone fruit - thinking peach, nectarine.

What a joy!  I've a mind lately to taste through as much of the Loire as I can find and afford.  I want to know the distinctions between Baudry's bottlings; I want to know that various ways the Montlouis can ride the razor's edge; I want to understand the variations of sauvignon blanc from Sancerre to its lesser vaunted neighbors like menetou.

So many amazing wines run through these lips.  I am so thankful at my good fortune and the opportunity to indulge in this simple pleasure.

Tuesday, February 26, 2013

The Northeast Battle

Threw together some simple peasant fare: fried potatoes onions, sauteed cabbage and thinly sliced longitudinally hot dogs - the good ones without nitrates.  It's still cold in February and I was looking to move out some holdover winter vegetables.

The meal was surprisingly good. I haven't cooked this dish in well over a decade, but it's as good as I remember.  Most surprisingly was the KT liked it a lot too....in fact, no leftovers can be found.

To match this simple, hearty repast, I first opened a gevurtztraminer from NE Italy.  Colterenzio I think is the producer. It was so lovely, almost ethereal, with...yes, hints of alpine wildflowers and cool brisk mountain air.  Just a lovely wine, yet not exactly what I was looking for in a match. So I proceeded to open a riesling from Alsace, Trimbach to be exact.  It too was just exquisite and actually quite different from the riesling I was expecting.  Very little residual sugar.  Tight, bracing and a nice whiff of petrol on the nose.  Very satisfying.

So NE Italy, NE France wines paired very nicely with the simple german fare.  Wines of place and very much at home with food or in a meditation pose.

Saturday, February 16, 2013

The Four

The week  began simply, with a tomato based sauce on corn pasta and remnants of tri-tip steak.  Seeking something new, I opened a 2000 Di majo norante aglianico.  Although I have heard and read that aglianico can age, this $9.95 bottle gave me pause: was it past its prime?  Could something priced this low hold up for thirteen years?  Is the price of wine indicative of its aging potential?

All concerns were laid to rest with the first sniff and sip.  Wonderfully complex and layered. Full in the mouth and with still enough structure to last a long time. Tannins softened and behind the scene to add heft.  A mature fruit that didn't really have a shopping list of obvious varieties: red fruit, sure, plums, cherries and ?  Really just an excellent wine with this meal.

Night two, Fat Tuesday, KT wanted a burger and fries, since her lenten sacrifice this year will be fried potatoes.  Such a funny thing to do for a non-Catholic but she does it every year.  So Killer Burger it was and we finished the aglianico.  Not as good a match as with the pasta from last night.  The aglianico dispatched, I opened a 2004 Sapoleil syrah from Wally World.  OMG, this was so not a wally world wine!  The syrah was magical with its defined tartness. The fruit of syrah very there but not masked by the high alcohol, fruit bomb sweet quality that often defines Walla Walla wines.  at 13.9 % alcohol it was just so pleasant and kind of ethereal.  We always age our WW wines and this gives evidence that, for our style at least, this is a rewarding effort.

Wednesday we had Jesse, Alica and Asher over.  I opened a 2011 Taschlerhof Sylvaner that was just devine.  We paired it with KT's famous chicken thighs, potatoes and kale bake.  It was simply wonderful. The distraction of Asher and company kept us from really meditating on the wine but there was no need because it just merged with food perfectly and didn't demand attention.  Then, on Friday, with leftovers, I opened another bottle.  Some bottle variation was evident, because this one was a bit frizzante.  With just the two of us, we had time to really focus on this wine and oh my, what a joy to behold.  The nose transported me to a high alpine field with cool breezes blowing over spring alpine flowers...absolutely wafting with delicate scents.  A tight acidity and joyous fruits in the mouth.  Reminded me of sylvaners from Alsace but like those taken to the next level.  A wine to spend time on your knees in a high mountain chapel, giving thanks for taste buds and deep sniffs.

Thursday, VD, we had a 1998 Marchesi Cannubi barolo.  1998 to celebrate our wedding year.  KT made an outstanding polenta with sausage and truffle cheese/salt/oil and shredded arugula.  The wine was wonderful but not mind blowing, as I expected it to be.  We really haven't spent a lot of time with barolos and so I'm not sure if my expectations were higher than could be met, if the bottle was past its prime, if it was a "dull" period or what.  It was very good but not life changing like I thought it might be.  Certainly not as interesting to us as the aglianico.  That seems like heresy to say and maybe its a reflection of our immature  palates. At any rate, it was great with the meal but the meal was the real winner here.  Nebbiolo is a great food wine and this barolo played a complimentary role with style, if not with flash.

Sunday, February 10, 2013

A Wine Fit for a King

2009  Melaric Saumur, Billes de Roche

An early hint of summer with floral blooms of apricot.  Wonderful acidity and a backdrop of some spice that I always associate with carnations.  Here in the throes of February I'm transported to a warm deck overlooking a green field of fledging, shin high wheat, tasting under-ripe apricots: fruit yes, but that subtle tartness that suggests the fruit will be ready in day or two.  Was this the inspiration for sweet tart candy?

Magnificent with the hearty but light fare of the week: white bean soup and assorted cheeses.  This wine defines crispness and has held its shape over several days in the refer.  I  believe  purchased at E&R; they know a thing or two about subtleties and perfect acids.  Golden hues that remind me of Terri's tresses. Terri, what has become of you?  A young gypsy girl from the 70's; you were a wonderful lover and good friend.  I have always been circumspect with whom I'll open the doors of perception and you were so easy and gentle on my mind. It was easy to trip with you and that phrase only means something to those who've been there.  Transported by this wonderful wine to a time when things seemed....simpler? better? I can't capture that time with words but I can feel it and I love being there once again.  Thank you.

Saturday, February 9, 2013

The King and I

Yes, SWIRL fans, with this Epiphany luncheon a king was chosen to lead the pack.  Perhaps it was because this year's festivities fell so close to Fat Tuesday, but the lucky beignet fell to me.  I will endeavor to reign with a velvet glove and a lion's heart.

By way of first order, I invoked a return to the holiday celebrations of my youth, that is, for this calendar year, we will celebrate holidays as they come and not in the fashion invoked by Richard the Deceptive Heart Nixon: conveniently compressing holidays to fit into a tidy three-day weekend formula. So, on February 12th and 22nd, Abe and George regain their rightful status as celebrations of note.

This year's Epiphany was a beauty: all accounted for except our southern sister Kay.  We ate like kings and queens, drank the finest of fizz and laughed as only those who love freely can.  Proof?  I offer you this:


Long may we run!

I will endeavor to post more on this blog this year.  Last year's attempt at naming the "60 finest" wines to coincide with my age was clearly a bust.  The task proved too big.  Every wine tasted could have been on the list and how to choose?  Sure, some proved more memorable than others and the "inclusion" part is easy; it's the exclusion part that gives me pause.  

Salud, prost, asante: I raise a new glass to my Swirler brothers and sisters and look forward to providing a court worthy of your attention.
WtE

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

La dolce vita revisited

We came together eleven weeks after our many weeks in Italy:  the colonel and the angry pony hosted. Scriba brought along her delightful husband, Dave, who unfortunately did not make the Italian vacance and had to suffer through our many 'you had to be there' stories of our time together in Cortona and other oases of Italian nirvana.  He held up well. The Bawl Baby, Minkie and Ed from Fla rounded out the festa and a festa it was: the center piece being the distribution of our italian wine purchases and a chance to worship the almighty pig.

The antipasti plate of cheeses, salami, marcona almonds, olives and assorted crackers provided an elegant accompaniment to the Walla Walla champagne, compliments of Minkie.  Dinner followed shortly: perfectly pan-roasted potatoes and cruciferous vegetables, day-long languidly stewed white beans and the centerpiece, the anglo-fied porchetta roast tinged with maple smoke from the Traeger.  The table groaned under the weight of such largess and the gutteral utterances of happy eaters.  Yeah, we had some wine too: a 2003 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from Boscarelli, a 2007 Villa Antinori Toscana, a 2007 Vino N di M from Poliziano (that we purchased in Italy) and a non-vintage Sauvignon Blanc from Wally World's Va Piano.